| While "Mademoiselle" Chanel herself may have | | | | Héritage. There has been a marked |
| created her famous No.5, which is still among the | | | | acceleration, since the early eighties, in the |
| world's most famous perfumes, that age is well | | | | creation of beauty products, with beauty care |
| and truly gone. Today, creating a "liquor" is the | | | | ranges - Issima, Evolution, Odélys - and |
| prerogative of a handful of inventors particularly | | | | also make-up lines - Matéorites, |
| skilled at handling essences: they are known as | | | | Terracotta and L'Or de Guerlain. |
| "noses". | | | | In April 1994, the perfumer's history turned a |
| It is not a profession that comes with a diploma | | | | major corner since the established house was |
| since, above all, it requires a love of and a gift for | | | | bought up by the world's leading luxury group, |
| fragrances as well as many years of | | | | LVMH (Louis-Vuitton-Moët-Hennessy). |
| apprenticeship not to mention the fact that a | | | | Headed by Bernard Arnault, the Group includes |
| "nose" does not smoke and avoids anything and | | | | other perfumes such as Christian Dior and Kenzo. |
| everything that might ruin his or her talent. After | | | | Does this mean, then, that the label which is so |
| all, these rare experts (who can be counted on | | | | selective when it comes to the distribution of its |
| the fingers of both hands) must be capable not | | | | products is to become more widely available? |
| only of finding their way through a range of | | | | Today, Guerlain intends to develop by "retaining all |
| several thousand fragrances but also of blending | | | | of its tradition while incorporating contemporary |
| them successfully. | | | | elements in its offering," explains Christian Lanis, |
| To create a perfume, you need to blend several | | | | the new chairman of the board. At present, the |
| dozen essences and choose what specialists refer | | | | Group achieves 33% of its discount perfume |
| to as the "key note" (the fragrance that is | | | | bottles men turnover in Europe as a whole, with |
| instantly perceptible), the "core note" (which gives | | | | France accounting for 27%, America, for 18%, |
| the perfume its character) and the "basic note" | | | | Asia and Oceania, also 18% and 4% throughout |
| (which holds the entire structure together). The | | | | the Middle East and Africa. The new dimension |
| perfume is created by mixing notes that are | | | | afforded by LVMH, resulting no doubt in new sites |
| fruity or tart, woody, flowery or sensual. Some | | | | abroad, will not prevent the group as a whole |
| of these experts work for a particular house such | | | | from remaining true to its motto: "To be Guerlain |
| as Jean-Paul Guerlain, who created Samsara, while | | | | more than ever before". |
| others create for a brand, such as Jacques | | | | Chanel No.5 perfume for women and the shadow |
| Cavalier and Jean Guichard, from Grasse. | | | | of Marilyn. |
| The ability to distinguish olfactory notes with a | | | | What better endorsement of a product could a |
| mere sniff is not enough to create a perfume | | | | perfumer hope for than that of an actress such |
| that will remain famous. It also requires a | | | | as Marilyn Monroe, who once stated that the only |
| sensitivity for the mood of the day, as was the | | | | thing she wore in bed were a few drops of |
| case for Shalimar by Guerlain, created in 1925, or, | | | | Chanel No.5? |
| more recently, for Opium (1977) by Yves Saint | | | | Chanel was that fortunate, so much so that its |
| Laurent and Poison (1985) by Dior. Nowadays, | | | | perfume, which was created in 1921, still remains |
| perfumes are more startling, such as L'Eau d'Issey | | | | its brand leader several decades later. No.5 was |
| by Miyaké, with its pronounced marine | | | | given its name by "Mademoiselle" Chanel as it was |
| touch. Or more discreet, for young girls, such as | | | | the fifth bottle she chose among the models |
| Eden by Chanel. | | | | presented to her and it was due to be launched in |
| In most cases, as in fashions or in any artistic | | | | May, the fifth month. This precious elixir has been |
| creation, success comes from the chance | | | | the highest selling perfume for women ever since |
| encounter between the public and a certain | | | | and is currently nudging the 5% mark in world |
| sensitivity. For that, the perfumes must also | | | | market share. |
| correspond to the brand name that launches it | | | | Better still, the growth rate for sales of this |
| and comply with its image luxury, youth, | | | | perfume alone is still above 18%. A real annuity |
| sensuality, mystery, originality. There must be | | | | for the parent company which, traditionally, has |
| total coherence between the perfume, its | | | | relied on the services of French actresses to |
| perfume bottles and the image they convey. | | | | ensure the promotion of its prize product. Today, |
| Most popular womens perfume - by Yves Saint | | | | it is Carole Bouquet who endorses the brand's |
| Laurent. | | | | products; in a recent television ad, she had to |
| If, from New York to Paris and from Sydney to | | | | transform herself into none other than Marilyn |
| Peking, more than two million visitors have | | | | Monroe. In the seventies, Catherine Deneuve had |
| admired his creations in museums, his style is | | | | caused sales of the perfume to soar in the United |
| expressed first and foremost through colour, life, | | | | States. So much so that the American press, |
| movement and the history of women, which he | | | | captivated by her charm, had nominated the |
| lovingly accompanies since 1958, the date of his | | | | French actress as the world's most elegant |
| first collection for Christian Dior, which made him | | | | woman. |
| famous all over the world. | | | | Chanel's world-wide reputation cannot conceal the |
| Born in Oran, Algeria, in 1936, he was a mere | | | | entirely family-owned structure of its capital, |
| twenty-one-years-old when, already, he was | | | | which, as far as perfumes are concerned, has |
| referred to as "Christian II". He founded his own | | | | been held by the Wertheimer family since 1924. |
| house of couture in 1962, with Pierre | | | | The group is not quoted on the stock exchange |
| Bergé, and, in 1966, his "Rive Gauche" line | | | | and is usually most reticent about its figures. With |
| of ready-to-wear, which allowed thousands of | | | | Chanel No.5, No.19, Coco, Cristalle, Egoïste, |
| women to blend elegance and comfort. Besides | | | | the group, which also owns Ungaro perfumes, is |
| creating some of the most popular womens | | | | ranked sixth in the world and fourth in France |
| perfume, the bush shirt (1968) and the pantsuit | | | | after L'Oréal, LVMH and Elf-Aquitaine. |
| (1969) became classics of the contemporary | | | | For many years the company was closely linked |
| wardrobe. "A happy woman is a woman in a black | | | | with the personality of its founder, Coco Chanel; |
| skirt, with a black pullover, black stockings, a piece | | | | today, it is a major international group. Its |
| of costume jewelry and a man who loves her by | | | | American subsidiary and, more particularly, its |
| her side." | | | | chairman Alain Wertheimer, has just bought up a |
| In order to assert himself as the leading outfitter | | | | leading Bordeaux wine, Château |
| of his day, this aesthete succeeded, better than | | | | Rausan-Ségla, a Margaux |
| anyone else, in transcribing his dreams inspired by | | | | deuxième cru classé. The start, |
| artists: Andy Warhol, Mondrian and Tom | | | | perhaps, of a policy of diversification in perfume |
| Wesselman during the sixties, Picasso in the | | | | for women ... |
| seventies, Van Gogh and Bonnard in the eighties. | | | | Christian Dior - is more than a trademark, it is a |
| His creations have always caused a scandal, from | | | | legend. |
| the first see-through blouses (1968) to his | | | | Founded in 1947, the House at 30, Avenue |
| perfume, Opium, launched in 1977. But his | | | | Montaigne, near the Champs-Elysées, |
| strength is his ability also to embody absolute | | | | rhymes with the unavoidable new look and the |
| classicism, with Catherine Deneuve as his | | | | image of the eternal Parisian woman with her fine |
| ambassador. As the heir to Chanel and Balenciaga, | | | | shoulders and narrow waist. In the space of ten |
| he remains true to their lines, uncluttered by detail: | | | | years, from 1947 to 1957 (the date of his death), |
| "Elegance is a way of moving". | | | | Christian Dior succeeded in creating a fashion |
| Yves Saint Laurent, a passionate collector and | | | | house whose name is famous the world over. He |
| opera enthusiast, creator of most popupar | | | | was a pioneer inasmuch as he was the first to |
| womens perfume , remains one of the last great | | | | develop "licences" for stockings, cosmetics, |
| aesthetes at the close of this century. From | | | | womens perfume and all accessories, a policy that |
| Cyrano de Bergerac to The Two-Headed Eagle, | | | | has been much imitated since. |
| he has created many costumes for the theatre, | | | | The "CD" set within a Louis XVI style medallion is |
| his first love. His art has become purer and, in a | | | | more than a trademark, it is a legend. The House |
| whisper of muslin, he recreates dreams worthy | | | | of Dior was bought up in 1987; today, it belongs |
| of a Botticelli, as if to say: "A man or a woman's | | | | to the world's leading manufacturer of luxury |
| most beautiful adornment is love." | | | | goods, the Louis-Vuitton-Moët-Hennessy |
| Guerlain: the conductor of perfume bottles men. | | | | Group. The artistic directorship of the fashion and |
| France's oldest established perfumer is a veritable | | | | perfume house is now in the hands of the Italian |
| "conductor of fragrances". Over the last 165 | | | | Gianfranco Ferré for whom "Dior is the |
| years, Guerlain's compositions have all become | | | | Watteau of couturiers, full of nuances, delicate |
| great classics: L'Eau impériale, Shalimar, | | | | and chic. Being Italian in a house of French tradition |
| L'Heure bleue, Vol de Nuit and Mitsouko. | | | | is to participate ahead of one's time in the Europe |
| The entire history of French perfumery is | | | | of 1992." |
| concentrated in those two syllables, Guer-lain. | | | | Hence, the loyalty displayed by this Pavarotti of |
| From the Second Empire through to the Belle | | | | the fashion world to a savoir faire guaranteed by |
| Epoque, the Roaring Twenties and the postwar | | | | the Dior workshops, from suits with sable piping |
| period, five generations of perfumers have taken | | | | to sumptuous gala gowns that afford a sense of |
| the succession in the Guerlain family, founded by | | | | structure to romantic dreams. For the 1995 |
| Pierre François Pascal. Ever since the first | | | | winter season, Gianfranco Ferré has |
| boutique was opened in Paris, in 1828, the | | | | chosen to pay tribute to Cézanne, on the |
| company has gone on expanding its line of | | | | occasion of the retrospective dedicated to the |
| perfume for men. Today, it has seven exclusive | | | | artist by the Grand Palais, in Paris. |
| boutiques in Paris, with equally exclusive shops in | | | | Hence the blue-green muslin and chiffon in the |
| Milan, Frankfurt, Tokyo, Singapore and Hong Kong. | | | | hues of the Montagne Sainte-Victoire, near |
| The House of Guerlain has gradually developed | | | | Aix-en-Provence. The Dior touch is all there, |
| from small-scale production in the 19th century to | | | | noticeable in the cut of the suits, the sense of |
| an international cosmetics firm which, with 321 | | | | detail, the inlays and hidden seams, the |
| fragrances, boasts the broadest product range in | | | | embroidered, white guipure coats, the swallow-tail |
| the French perfume trade. The "Guerlain style" | | | | jacket trains and the velvet evening gowns, |
| over the past few decades has been | | | | faithful to that "sense of the accomplished and |
| characterised essentially by such products as | | | | perfect" dear to the inventor of the new look |
| Vétiver, Habit rouge, Chamade, | | | | with womens perfume to match and all. |
| Nahéma, Jardins de Bagatelle, Samsara, | | | | |